Monday, January 25, 2010

The Wheels on the Bus...

It was a 1988 Blue Bird Bus from Georgia with typical DAWGS stickers posted in the corners. However, it was also decked out in “Jesus en mi corazon,” Cars the movie, and Tazmanian devil stickers. The big yellow-turned-neon bus cruised out Carretera Vieja a Leon past horse and buggies, pedestrians, and cars. Words like “amor,” “siempre,” and “corazon” frequented the radio as latin ballads poured loudly through the speakers. I have no idea how this bus got to Nicaragua from Georgia, but here it is...another example of typical Nicaraguan public transit. I spend my time sweating, crammed against bellies and bodies of those standing alongside me. The packed situation makes falling down an impossibility even though the bus is so full that the front door remains wide open. A colorful character swings just outside the doors of the moving bus; he whistles, collects money, makes change, calls out stops, all while dangling from the bus by a couple of fingers. I smile, wising I had a camera to capture the moment.


Such is life.

Monday, January 18, 2010

Reflections on Tourism

If there’s one thing that Central America has going for itself, it’s the beautiful natural resources that litter the area with spectacular beaches, enchanting forests, looming volcanoes, and lush wildlife. The economic potential for tourism in Central America is unbound, and after living in Nicaragua for 5 months as an NGO volunteer, I have recently had the privilege of experiencing Honduras, Costa Rica, and Nicaragua as a tourist. Some of my observations, and reflections, follow.


Honduras


Upon the arrival of Christmas vacations, I headed North, not all the way to the States but first to Honduras. My roommate and I decided to visit San Pedro Sula, a financial hotspot in the country in which over 1/3 of the GDP is centered. Bypassing the seemingly lackluster and strikingly similar-to-Managua capital of Tegucigalpa, we headed North to the remarkably organized city. For the first time in 5 months, I experienced culture shock. There was a plethora of American-style restaurants, a noticeable lack of stoplight street performers and window washers (I think our windshields actually went dirty for more than 2 hours which just doesn’t happen back in Managua), and even - gasp! - street names and signs. There was 1st Street, 2nd Street, 3rd Street and so on... Coming from Nicaragua, this was revolutionary. These little comforts that make tourism easy encourage visitors, although overall tourism in Honduras has been down since last year’s political turmoil.


LP & Me at Copan Ruinas


What to see: Copan Ruinas, the ancient Mayan Ruins located about 2 hours from San Pedro Sula, and the adorable town located nearby with the same name


What to eat: Baleadas, a traditional snack of flour tortilla, egg, cheese, beans, and cream that’s just as good on the streets as it is in the local fast food joints


What to do: Make friends with the locals. A new alero or alera (the Honduran equivalent of amigo) will help you see the beautiful country through their own eyes and give you insight into the socio-political mood of the average citizen


Costa Rica


Deciding that we couldn’t wait until the end of our stint in Nicaragua to explore neighboring lands, my good friend/coworker and I hopped a direct bus to Costa Rica last weekend. Our destination was the Monteverde cloud forest, one of Costa Rica’s most well-known tourist destinations, and let me tell you, this place was Touristy with a capital “T.” Everything was expensive, there were lots of shops and activities, and we had no problem filling our weekend itinerary with plenty of outdoorsy recreation. Arriving too late Friday to attend one of the famed night tours, we enjoyed a dinner at a local restaurant called the Tree House, which was, quite literally, in a tree house! With live music filling the atmosphere with latin beats, we dined in the company of ex-Patriot retirees and a couple other young backpackers. The next day, with a 6:30 AM start, we were off to exploring the local Cloud Forest. An afternoon of traditional Tico (Costa Rican) food and a canopy tour led us to the evening’s night tour where our guide encountered an ocelot (we missed seeing it by 2 seconds!), tarantula, bats, and various other night time creatures of the cloud forest.


Monteverde was beautiful and enchanting, with rolling green mountains as far as the eye can see. It was also an example of the kind of wealth tourism can bring to a country. The area was not lacking in tourists, and the tourists were not lacking in opportunities to spend chunks of cash in exchange for access to natural wonders (entrance to the various Cloud Forests ranged in $15-17, not including an additional $15+ fee for a guided tour). However, the high prices ensured that all trails and tours were well-maintained. Provided transportation from the towns to trailheads ensured that travelers would have access to the natural wonders. An abundance of restaurants and cheap, well-maintained hostels provided creature comforts such as good food, hot showers, and free internet. In terms of tourism, Costa Rica is years ahead of anything I’ve seen in Nicaragua.


Which way to San Jose? A bus stop leaves us in the middle of nowhere...


Fern Gully? Just about.


What to see: The Cloud Forests are a must! Think rainforest. Think enchanting. Think mystical. As you walk through the cloud forest, you literally are walking through a cloud. The sights and sounds of the flora and fauna, as well as the constant drip-drop of the dew, create an enthralling experience. Also, you don’t want to miss a night tour, where the sights, sounds, and activities of the animals are totally different.


What to eat: A man selling delicious kabobs on the side of the street across from the Catholic Church will delight you with his stories and his grilling abilities for about $1/kabob


What to do: It may break the bank, but a canopy tour is not to be missed. Extremo tours offers one with 14 cables, some over 1 Kilometer, including a Tarzan-style swing and a “Superman” cable. With both your upper and lower body hooked to the 1 km cable, it’s the closest thing to flying I’ve ever experienced!


NICARAGUA


As someone told me in Costa Rica, Nicaragua likely has more natural resources and attractions than neighboring Central American states. Nicaragua, with it’s award-winning cigars and fine coffee, has great potential for eco-tourism. Moreover, with at least 5 volcanoes that I can think of on the top of my head, the country offers the opportunity to hike and even volcano-board down (think snowboarding on volcanic ash) active volcanoes! That’s not including the beautiful lakes, lagoons, and beaches which offer the chance to enjoy swimming, kayaking, and surfing. Nicaragua is also cheap, especially with a recent rise in the American dollar value here. For example, a beer that costs $1.25 in Costa Rica might cost about $0.50 here. A $10 meal in touristy Costa Rica could be found for $5 Nica style. So what’s the drawback? The country lags behind as it lacks much of the infrastructure necessary to encourage tourism. President Daniel Ortega has stated his desire to enhance tourism, yet his political party graffiti remains ubiquitous across the nation’s capital. Trash litters the streets, and taking a bus almost anywhere can be an overwhelming process with people catcalling names of local destinations. Safety is also a concern for many people traveling, although I myself have had little problems with crime during my stay. After visiting the two neighboring countries, I can attest to the fact that Nicaragua has a way to go before making travelers feel “comfortable.” However, the potential for Nicaragua to increase tourism and employ its citizens with highly desirable jobs in this industry is worth noting. I myself have had several pleasant experiences and have also been making a list of things I hope to explore in the future. I’ve realized that one of the best ways I can help make a change in Nicaragua is to, in fact, be a tourist. By encouraging the local economy and tourism industry, I am one small part in a larger effort to provide jobs to people and protection to the environment.


Masaya's active volcano, where fumes provide for only a 20 minute visit

Nicaragua's beaches are stunningly beautiful and hotspots for surfers


What to see:

(I’ve seen)

Laguna de Apoyo. Gorgeous laguna in an ancient (extinct) volcano crater. Deepest body of water in Central America

San Juan del Sur. Touristy town fit for backpackers, ex-Patriots, and surfers alike

Estelí. Typical Central American cowboy town with nearby eco-lodges and nature reserves

(I’ve yet to see)

Corn Islands. Diving, spear-fishing, and little beach huts, oh my!

Leon. Colonial town with nearby volcano-boarding option

Omnetepe. Island in the middle of Lake Nicaragua with two volcanoes and plenty of hiking


What to eat: Gallo Pinto, the rice & beans mix staple


What to do: Come visit! You’ll be helping out Nicaragua by investing in the economy and supporting tourism efforts. I’ll even serve as your guide for a small commission of the occasional cappuccino and some imported funfetti cake mix.

Promoción

The Nicaraguan academic calendar differs from that of the States in that it follows a schedule in accordance with the changing of the year. In other words, children begin school in early February, have a small vacation in July, and terminate the year in December. Promoción, the special celebration in which students graduate from preschool, elementary school, and high school, occurs in early-t0-mid December every year. This year we were fortunate to attend the promoción at Niño Jesus de Praga, one of the local private schools that many of the children in our programs attend. It included a long procession, lively traditional dance performances, the Nicaraguan national anthem, and a recitation of every graduate's name. We are very proud of all the graduates!

Way to go!

I am continually impressed by the importance of education and the value of knowledge. A literate society develops the economic, social, and political power of the average citizen. In the words of Former UN Secretary-General Kofi Annan, "Literacy unlocks the door to learning throughout life, is essential to development and health, and opens the way for democratic participation and active citizenship." In a country where the total adult literacy rate is 76.7% (according to 2009 United Nations Development Programme Report), I am encouraged to see families and students passionate about their education.