Day two: Unexpected adventures (Who knew Colombians loved to salsa?)

(3/27) This trip is teaching me to be flexible. Here's why. When plans fall through (like waking up early to see the Panama Canal...), it opens up the day and night to a whole new world of posibilities.

Kelly & I spent the first morning exploring the dilapidated yet charming area near our hostal: Casco Viejo. This area is where "Panama" moved after "Panama Viejo" was under Henry Morgan's siege. It's full of ruins, churches, and cute ironwork. My kinda place. We took refuge from the sun in a wonderful little airconditioned corner store called the Gourmet Super and passed the noontime reading and resting. I tasted pesto for the first time in who-knows-how-long. They even had Coke Zero. Wow. The little things...

We were continuing our wanderings through Casco Viejo when we ran into Julio, a white polo wearing, card-carrying member of the tourist agency. He charmed us and tricked us into a well-informed tour of the rest of CV, as well as a visit to the waterside cinta, a long walking path along Calle Balboa. Julio's unexpected appearance easily made the day - we learned more from him than we would have by ourselves or from a guidebook. Along our tour, we passed traditionally dressed Kuna women selling their wares and walked through the Panamanian equivalent of lover's lane. One thing's for sure, Panama is romantic. I'm completely captivated, and it's just day two. Coming back to the hostel, Kelly & I decided to rest on the balcony, watch the city skyline twinkle across the waters, and enjoy some white wine from Spain, a rueda.

We were bien-tired and bien vestidas as we left our hostal in search of dinner. Our one requirement for the evening: air conditioning. We are not accostumed to this luxury and thus completlely taking advantage of its availability. We stumbled upon a recommended restuarant called Casablanca complete with snapshots from the classic film adorning the walls. I ordered a veggie burger (it's been a goal of mine to find one) and rose wine.

Just as we were deciding that perhaps our night would end early (as nights involving wine so often do), I came back from the restroom to discover Kelly making friends with the neighboring table.

Flashforward to midnight, we're walking through curtains into a ballroom full of salsa dancers swaying along to live music in an environment straight out of Cuba. Welcome to the Havana Club. Our friends from dinner are leaders in a Colombian business selling education technology, but even better, they love to salsa.

Flashforward to 5:00am - we're still dancing to salsa, rap, and latin pop, now on the uber trendy Calle Uruguay with our new friends. We're at s6is, a hip bar with loud music, great dancing, and a balcony overlooking the poshest party street. I'm high-fiving a Panamanian who likes the Titans and Peyton Manning. I think back to my study abroad days in Spain, where a night out easily doesn't stop until the Metro reopens at 7:00am. I guess the Panamanians and Colombians have something in common with the Spainards besides Spanish...

Day 1 - Culture Shock (or "good things come to those who wait")

(Friday 3/26) After checking out NYTimes' 36 Hours in Panama City, Panama and my trusty Central America on a Shoestring (thanks, Lonely Planet!), I was eager to get to Panama City, Panama (not to be confused with Panama City Beach, FL). Kelly and I arrived for our 8:15am direct COPA airlines flight to said destination, only to have the staff inform us that there were not seats for us. As we had purchased our early flight in order to spend the whole afternoon exploring the wonders of Panma's capital city, we were not well pleased with our attendant's message. He assured us we would see the next flight out as well as $150 vouchers from COPA, an additional night's stay in Panama to make up for the afternoon lost, and a free transfer of our return flight from Friday (4/1) to Saturday (4/2). We spent the morning in a luxurious Managuan hotel (I didn't even know this place existed!) and enjoyed a free buffet breakfast/lunch.

Our 12:30pm depature on COPA flight 411 routed us through El Salvador, giving us the opportunity to meet traveling scouts from Guatemala. Am I the only person who didn't know that scouting was international? Apparently there is in fact a Central American Scouts convention in Panama this week. Fascinating.

Upon our arrival in Panama, we held our breath waiting for Kelly's luggage to arrive. It did. Thank goodness. After our flight was somehow too full without us this morning, I was alittle wary of the airline provider. However, after the attendants provided us with our hotel reservation for next Friday night and free transportation from the airport, my negative first impression (I can't get to Panama because you oversold my flight?!) was changing rapidly (You're giving me an extra night for free with $50+ worth of transportation and $30+ worth of food ANND a $150 voucher!? Wow...you can mess up my flight whenever you want!). Like I said, good things come to those who wait.

Our nice taxi driver educated us on all things Panama during our 30 minute ride to Luna's Castle, our hostal in Casco Viejo. He was a Bocas del Toro native, perfect for us as we'll be traveling to the beach town of Bocas Monday-Thursday. As we neared the town, my jaw dropped as I saw the expansive skyline. He pointed out the new Trump Tower (shaped like a D for Donald), the Hard Rock Cafe, different malls and construction projects, all as we cruised down the well-lit, well-paved, Miami-esque Avenida Balboa. Have I ever mentioned that there's only one skyscraper in all of Managua, and that's being generous? And that most of the roads don't happen to have street names? I guess having your capital city lying across fault lines isn't the best idea, but the Nicaraguans make it work.

I can see why Panama is nicknamed the "Miami of the South." However, as we crossed into the more delapitated - dare I say more charming? - area of Casco Viejo, I entered streets that reminded me at once of Portugal and Cuba. I knew from that first taxi ride that I was not in Managua anymore. We arrived at Luna's Castle to find that our hostal is funky, arsty, friendly, and completely stocked with all the amenities one could desire: a kitchen, computers, hammocks, a book exchange, free towels, new friends, and a bar downstairs with "loud art" (waiting to see what that's like). And so with a quick exploration of Casco Viejo and a 10% off dinner at Aroma's Cafe thanks to our hostal's discount armbands, Kelly and I settled downstairs for a bit to make some new acquaintances and sample some domestic drinks.

You know what, Panama? I think we're going to get along just fine!

Semana Santa - Holy Week

Friday welcomed me and the rest of Central America to the phenomenon known as Semana Santa, Holy Week. For the 9 days preceeding Easter (and even the day after), there is no school, mucha fiesta (lots of party), religious demonstrations, and tons of travel. Managua basically shuts down and moves to the beach. Even the biggest discoteca Chaman is relocated to the sands of San Juan del Sur. Like I said, mucha fiesta...

For the Manna volunteer, Semana Santa brings a plethora of options. Some chose to spend time with loved ones in the States; others are spending time with loved ones in Managua (and like I said, by Managua, I mean the beach...). Another option is having your loved ones come to you. With a week off to enjoy the heat and the sun, what better time to welcome friends down to pass the time and catch up on the past 8 months? Finally, the last option is to join the thousands of others who use the time to travel around Central America. After a sleepy farewell to my roommate upon her 3:30am depature to Guatemala via El Salvador, my friend Kelly and I went to catch our 8:15am direct flight to Panama.

The following updates will be my ideas, expectations, adventures, reactions, and insight into the 5th Central American country I've been blessed to conocer, visit. Please pardon the fact that my next few posts will be from the perspective of a tourist in Panama versus an NGO volunteer in Nicaragua. I hope you will enjoy the following tales!

Who Ya With?!

It's officially here! Spring break 2k10. That means lots of hustling and bustling around the Manna House as our lives for one month are taken over by leading groups, managing programs, playing tour guide, and overseeing service initiatives. It can be a hectic time of the year, but so far it has proven to be one of my favorites. Why? Perhaps a better question to ask is not "Why?" but rather "Who Ya With?!"

"Who Ya With? VU!" is a token Vanderbilt cheer, and this past week Ian and I got to relive our Vandy spring break as we hosted the Manna team from our Alma Mater. Due to the fact that Manna hosted 3 spring break teams, ours was one of the groups chosen to dwell off-site for the week at El Salero community center.

Not a bad place to stay

Our spring breakers held strong through early mornings, full days, and late nights. Ian and I hoped to introduce them to a variety of organizations and opportunities working in community development in addition to MPI. The week's schedule consisted in volunteering with our programs and the preschool (Esperanza) in La Chureca and hearing presentations/visiting neighboring organizations including USAID, Fabretto, and a teaching hospital. We gave them a taste of Managua with a city tour and visit to Huembes market, as well as a real taste of Nicaragua - a trip to the famed Nica buffet (delicious for only $3/meal), a dinner in the community under a starry night sky, and meals prepared for our gracious cook Fermina highlighting my favorite mixture of rice and beans, gallo pinto. At the end of the week, our group planned and orchestrated a class for "Tuani Hour" in which they introduced the chavalosto some popular American dances. They brought a little bit of Nashville down South to Central America with Wild Horse Saloon-level moves choreographed to Cotton Eye Joe. After Tuani Hour, we took the children to El Salero for an afternoon field day.

Our spring breakers were absolutely wonderful, a breath of fresh air: happy and positive yet critical-thinkers, easy-going. I enjoyed the outside perspective and vigorous energy they brought to Ian and me. I enjoyed the feeling one gets when meeting someone new from a shared background (even though the end of the trip heralded an onslaught of Vandy nostalgia). I enjoyed the intellectual stimulation that is present in the University environment and is always transferred down by groups coming from the midst of academia. I enjoyed the banter and joviality characteristic of a college spring break and the reflection and inspiration characteristic of service work. All in all, it was a great week, paradoxically exhausting and rejuvenating.

So, just in case anyone feels like asking...

WHO YA WIT?!

......

Here's my answer:

VU!

GO DORES!!!

......

Vandy spring break may be over, but "spring break season" continues as we host groups from Massachusetts and Texas this week. Moreover, I'm only two weeks away from my spring break. (Yes, I'm living in Nicaragua and get a spring break!) Last week, Kelly and I booked our trip to Panama City, Panama. I'll be seeing the canal and who knows what else. Any advice is welcomed and encouraged!

Missing home, loving life, soaking up too much sun,

Jan Mags